Where to Put the Jack When Changing a Tire on a Toyota Highlander

Placing the jack correctly on your Toyota Highlander is the single most important step to safely change a tire and prevent serious damage to your vehicle’s underbody. You must use the factory-designated jacking points, which are reinforced metal notches located behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels on the rocker panel. Never jack on plastic body parts, the axle, or the suspension components.

Key Takeaways

• Use Only Factory Jack Points: The Toyota Highlander has specific, reinforced metal notches on the rocker panel (the seam between the door and the lower body) behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels. These are the only safe places to position the jack.
• Front vs. Rear Jacking: For a front tire, jack at the point behind the front wheel. For a rear tire, jack at the point in front of the rear wheel. The rear jack point is often slightly more forward than the wheel well.
• Never Jack on Plastic or Suspension: The plastic wheel arch liners, axle housing, control arms, or any suspension part will crack, bend, or break under the jack’s pressure, causing severe damage.
• Model Year Variations Are Minimal: While the exact shape of the notch may vary slightly between generations (2001-2006, 2007-2013, 2014-present), the location principle is identical: on the solid metal seam of the rocker panel, aligned vertically with the wheel.
• Always Use the Included Jack: The scissor jack that came with your Highlander is designed to fit these specific points perfectly. While a floor jack can be used, its saddle must be precisely positioned on the same reinforced notch.
• Engage the Parking Brake & Use Chocks: Before lifting, ensure the parking brake is firmly set and place wheel chocks securely against the tire diagonally opposite the one you’re changing.
• Consult Your Owner’s Manual: Your manual has the definitive diagram and instructions for your specific model year. When in doubt, that is your ultimate reference.

Why Jack Placement Isn’t Just Important—It’s Critical

You’re on the side of the road, tire flat, Highlander safely on the shoulder. You pop the trunk, grab the spare tire and the little scissor jack. You’re ready to get moving again. But before you even think about loosening a lug nut, you need to answer one vital question: where does this jack actually go? Putting it in the wrong spot doesn’t just mean the car won’t lift—it can mean a cracked rocker panel, a bent axle, or a suspension component ripped from its mount. For a Toyota Highlander, a heavy and tall SUV, using the correct jacking point is non-negotiable for your safety and your wallet. This guide will walk you through exactly where to put the jack on your Highlander, for any model year, with crystal-clear clarity.

Think of your Highlander’s body as a carefully engineered shell. The jacking points are like the reinforced eyelets on a shipping container—they’re built to handle immense concentrated force. Every other part of the underbody, from the plastic splash guards to the thin metal of the floor pan, is not. Placing the jack on the wrong surface transfers that force into bending and crushing, not lifting. The result is a repair bill that can easily exceed the cost of a professional roadside assistance call. Let’s make sure that never happens.

Identifying the Toyota Highlander’s Factory Jacking Points

The Toyota Highlander has two primary jacking points, one for the front axle and one for the rear. They are located on the rocker panel, which is the vertical sheet metal section between the bottom of your door and the wheel well liner. This is a solid, structural part of the unibody frame. The jacking point itself is a reinforced, raised metal notch or dimple designed to cradle the saddle of your jack.

Visual Guide: Finding the Notch

Lie down on the ground (or use a flashlight and a mirror) and look at the seam along the bottom of your Highlander’s side. Follow this seam from the front wheel well backward. About 6-12 inches behind the center of the front wheel, you will see a small, rectangular or squarish raised area in the metal. This is it. It often has a small plastic cover that snaps off to reveal the bare metal notch. For the rear, start at the rear wheel and look forward along the same rocker panel seam. The rear notch is typically located 4-10 inches in front of the rear wheel’s center.

Here’s a foolproof way to find them:

• Front Jack Point: Look behind the front wheel. The notch is on the rocker panel, roughly in line with the door latch mechanism or the bottom of the door handle on most models. It is not in the wheel well behind the tire, and it is not on the front bumper.
• Rear Jack Point: Look in front of the rear wheel. It’s on the rocker panel, usually closer to the rear door than the tailgate. On many Highlanders, you can see it by looking just forward of the rear tire’s sidewall. It is not on the rear axle housing.

If your Highlander has plastic splash guards or rocker panel trim, you may need to carefully pry or unsnap a small section to access the metal notch underneath. Always refer to your owner’s manual diagram first.

Step-by-Step: Using the Jack on Your Highlander

Now that you’ve found the notch, here is the safe, correct procedure for lifting your Highlander.

1. Preparation and Safety First

Park on a firm, level surface. Engage the parking brake. Shift into Park (for automatic) or into gear (for manual). Turn on your hazard lights. Place wheel chocks securely against the tire diagonally opposite the flat tire. For a front passenger flat, chock the rear driver’s tire. For a rear passenger flat, chock the front driver’s tire. This prevents the vehicle from rolling.

2. Remove the Spare and Loosen Lug Nuts (Slightly)

Remove the spare tire, jack, and lug wrench from the cargo area. Before you lift an inch, break the lug nuts loose while the tire is still on the ground. Use your body weight on the lug wrench; it’s much safer and easier than trying to break them when the wheel is in the air. Turn them counter-clockwise. Only loosen them about a quarter to a half turn. Do not remove them yet.

3. Position the Jack

This is the key step. Roll your jack into position directly beneath the factory jacking notch you identified. The saddle (the top part that contacts the car) must sit fully and squarely within the confines of that metal notch. If your jack has a curved pad, ensure it matches the curve of the notch. For a scissor jack, you’ll often need to extend it and angle the top slightly to get it to slip into the notch correctly. Double-check: Is the jack touching only the bare metal of the notch? Is it centered? Is the jack base sitting flat and stable on the ground?

4. Lift the Vehicle

Pump the jack handle slowly and steadily. The Highlander’s rocker panel is sturdy, but you want to lift evenly. Watch the vehicle. Lift it just high enough so the flat tire is completely off the ground—about 2-3 inches is sufficient. The new, fully inflated spare tire will be taller than a flat, so account for that. Lift slowly, and if you hear any creaking or see the body flexing abnormally, stop immediately and reposition the jack.

5. Change the Tire

Now you can fully remove the loosened lug nuts and set them aside in a safe spot. Pull the flat tire straight off. Lift the spare tire into place and hand-tighten all the lug nuts. Tighten them in a star pattern (tighten one, then the one opposite, etc.) using the lug wrench to get them as snug as possible. Do not fully torque them yet.

6. Lower and Torque

Carefully lower the jack until the spare tire just touches the ground but the full weight of the Highlander is not on it. Now, use the lug wrench to fully tighten the lug nuts in the star pattern with as much force as you can. Finally, lower the jack completely and remove it. Give the lug nuts one final, solid check with the wrench. Stow the flat tire, jack, and tools. Remember, the spare is a temporary solution. Drive cautiously (usually no more than 50 mph and 50 miles) to a tire shop for a proper repair or replacement.

Model Year Considerations: Does It Change?

You might be wondering if the jacking point location is different for your specific Highlander. The excellent news is that Toyota has maintained a consistent philosophy across all three generations of the Highlander (also called Kluger in some markets).

First Generation (2001-2006) & Second Generation (2007-2013)

On these earlier models, the rocker panel is more pronounced, and the jacking notch is a clearly defined, rectangular cutout in the metal. It’s often covered by a small, square plastic plug that you can pop out with a flathead screwdriver. The location is precisely as described: behind the front wheel, in front of the rear wheel, on the solid metal seam.

Third Generation (2014-Present)

The current generation features more complex body styling and plastic cladding. The rocker panel may have a large, integrated plastic splash guard. The jacking notch is still there, but it might be hidden behind a section of this plastic. You will typically need to peel back or gently pry a flap of the plastic guard to access the metal notch underneath. The location relative to the wheels remains identical. The principle is unchanged: find the solid metal seam of the unibody, and find the reinforced dimple.

Pro Tip: Before you ever have a flat, take five minutes in your driveway with your owner’s manual to locate and identify these points on your specific vehicle. Knowing exactly where they are under normal conditions eliminates stress and guesswork during an emergency.

Safety Precautions You Cannot Skip

Correct jack placement is part of a larger safety system. Here are the non-negotiable rules for a safe tire change on your Highlander.

The Ground is Everything

Never, ever jack your Highlander on soft soil, gravel, sand, or an incline. The jack base can sink or shift, causing the vehicle to fall. Always use a flat, hard surface like asphalt or concrete. If you’re stuck on a soft shoulder, try to get the wheels onto solid ground if possible.

Chocks Are Mandatory

Wheel chocks are not optional. They are your primary defense against the vehicle rolling. Use proper rubber or plastic chocks. In a pinch, large rocks or pieces of wood can work, but they must be immovable. Place them snugly against the tire tread of the wheel diagonal to the one you’re lifting.

Never Get Under a Jacked Vehicle

A scissor jack or even a floor jack is a single-point lifting device. It is not a support. Never crawl under your Highlander while it is supported only by the jack. The jack could fail, the vehicle could shift, or the jack point could shear. The only safe place to be under a lifted vehicle is if it is resting on jack stands placed on solid ground under designated frame rails (which on a unibody vehicle like the Highlander are often the same as the jacking points or nearby reinforced sections). For a simple tire change, you should never need to go under the car.

Mind the Load

The included scissor jack is designed for the Highlander’s weight, but it has limits. Do not use it to lift the entire vehicle for under-body work. It is for wheel removal only. Ensure the jack is in good condition—no bent parts, cracked welds, or damaged threads.

What Happens If You Get It Wrong? (The Horror Stories)

To truly understand why this matters, let’s look at what happens when jack placement goes awry.

Cracked or Torn Rocker Panel

This is the most common result of using a wrong point. If you place the jack saddle on the thin, flat section of the rocker panel away from the reinforced notch, the concentrated pressure will bend the metal downward, often causing a sharp crease or a complete tear. This compromises structural integrity and requires expensive panel replacement or major body shop repair.

Suspension Component Damage

Jacking on the control arm, trailing arm, or axle housing can bend these critical parts. A bent control arm will cause immediate and severe wheel alignment issues, leading to rapid tire wear and poor handling. Repair involves replacing the entire arm, which is a costly and labor-intensive job.

Plastic Damage and Misalignment

The plastic wheel well liners and splash guards are not structural. Jacking on them will crack, shatter, or crush them. While this seems less severe, it can lead to debris flying, loose plastic parts scraping while driving, and water/dirt intrusion into areas they shouldn’t be. Replacing these liners is a hassle and an unnecessary expense.

Vehicle Instability and Drop

If the jack slips off a bad spot or the surface it’s on gives way, the Highlander can fall suddenly. This can cause the wheel to fall on your foot, the body to crush tools, or the vehicle to land awkwardly on its rim, damaging the wheel hub and bearings. This is an immediate physical danger.

Tools of the Trade: Jacks, Stands, and Your Highlander

Your Highlander came with a specific toolkit. Understanding it helps.

The OEM Scissor Jack

This compact, screw-type jack is stored in the cargo floor compartment. Its saddle is specifically shaped to fit the Highlander’s jacking notches. Its lift capacity is rated for your vehicle’s curb weight. It’s slow but perfectly adequate for a tire change. Always inspect it periodically for rust and mechanical smoothness. Lubricate the screw thread occasionally with a light oil.

Using a Floor Jack

Many owners own a larger floor jack for home garage use. You can absolutely use it on your Highlander, but positioning is even more critical. The saddle on a floor jack is often smaller and pointed. You must get it dead-center in the factory notch. Use a short piece of wood (a 2×4 cut short) between the jack saddle and the notch if needed to distribute pressure and prevent the saddle from denting the metal. Never place the jack saddle on a wide, flat area of the rocker panel; it must be on the reinforced point.

Jack Stands: The Safety Net

For any work where you’ll be under the vehicle, you must use jack stands. The Highlander’s designated frame/body lifting points for stands are typically very close to the jacking notches, sometimes the same spot once the car is lifted. Consult your owner’s manual for the exact stand placement diagram. Never rely on the jack alone for support.

Beyond the Flat: Related Maintenance Tips

Since you’re dealing with tires and the spare, here are two connected tasks every Highlander owner should know.

Checking Your Spare Tire

Don’t wait for a flat to discover your spare is bald or dead. Check its air pressure (it’s often listed on the tire sidewall, usually 60 PSI) at least twice a year. A neglected spare can be a useless piece of rubber when you need it most. Also, check the condition of the spare tire jack and lug wrench. Make sure they’re not rusted solid.

Resetting the Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)

After you install the spare and have your original tire repaired or replaced, the TPMS light on your dashboard will likely remain on. Once the repaired tire is back on the vehicle and inflated to the correct pressure (found on the driver’s door jamb sticker), you’ll need to reset the system. The procedure varies slightly by model year but usually involves turning the ignition on (without starting) and pressing and holding the TPMS reset button (often located under the dash, near the steering column, or in the glove box) until the TPMS light blinks three times. For detailed, year-specific instructions on how to check tire pressure on the Toyota app and reset the system, our comprehensive guide walks you through the process for every Highlander generation. It’s a simple step that ensures your tire pressure monitoring system is accurately protecting you again.

Conclusion: Confidence Through Knowledge

Changing a tire on your Toyota Highlander is a straightforward task when you follow the correct steps. The cornerstone of that process is unequivocally knowing where to put the jack. It’s not a guess; it’s a specific, engineered location on the solid rocker panel, marked by a reinforced metal notch. By taking a few minutes now to locate these points on your specific Highlander using your owner’s manual as a guide, you transform a potentially stressful roadside situation into a manageable, safe procedure. Remember the core rules: level ground, parking brake and chocks, loosen nuts first, jack only on the factory notch, and never get under the car. Equip yourself with this knowledge, check your spare regularly, and you’ll be prepared for any flat tire with confidence and safety. Your Toyota Highlander is a reliable companion—treat it with the correct care during a tire change, and it will continue to serve you well for miles to come.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use my Highlander’s jack to lift the entire front or rear of the vehicle for other repairs?

No. The scissor jack provided with your Highlander is designed solely for changing a tire. It is a single-point lifting device for temporary use. For any under-body maintenance, you must use a proper floor jack in conjunction with jack stands placed on the vehicle’s designated frame rails.

What if my Highlander’s jacking notch is covered in rust or dirt and I can’t see it clearly?

Clean it carefully with a wire brush or a rag. You need to see the bare metal notch to ensure the jack saddle sits fully within its edges. If the notch itself is severely rusted or damaged, do not attempt to jack there. You will need to have it inspected and possibly repaired by a professional body shop before it’s safe to use.

Is it okay to use a piece of wood between the jack and the Highlander’s body to protect the paint?

For the factory scissor jack, its saddle is designed to contact the metal notch directly, and a piece of wood could cause slippage. However, if using a floor jack with a small, pointed saddle, a short, thick piece of hardwood (like oak) placed on the notch can help distribute pressure and prevent saddle indentation. The wood must be stable and not splinter under pressure. The primary goal is 100% contact between the jack (or wood) and the reinforced notch.

I have a 2021 Highlander. Is the jack point in the same place as my friend’s 2010 model?

Yes, the fundamental location is identical. On all Highlanders, the front jack point is on the rocker panel behind the front wheel, and the rear point is on the rocker panel in front of the rear wheel. The styling of the plastic wheel well liner may differ, but the underlying metal structure and the position of the reinforced notch remain consistent across all generations.

My tire is flat on a slight hill. Can I still change it?

It is extremely dangerous to jack a vehicle on an incline. The vehicle’s center of gravity can shift, and the jack or chocks can fail. If at all possible, drive (slowly and carefully, even on a flat) to a completely level area. If you are completely stuck, the safest option is to call for professional roadside assistance. Do not attempt a jack on a slope.

After changing my tire, do I need to do anything besides tighten the lug nuts?

Yes. First, if you used the temporary spare (the “donut”), remember it has strict speed (usually 50 mph) and distance (usually 50 miles) limits. Drive cautiously to a tire shop. Second, have the full-size tire repaired or replaced and remounted. Third, if your TPMS light is on, you will need to reset the system once the original tire is back on and properly inflated. The process for resetting the tire pressure light is similar across many brands but specific to your Highlander’s year—consult your manual or our detailed guide for your model.